Testimonial Thursday

~ A Mountaineering Legend ~

Ibex Expeditions pays homage to Walter Bonatti, one of the world’s greatest mountaineers, who pioneered some of the most difficult and breathtaking climbs on the earth’s tallest mountains, often alone, died September 13th in Rome. He was 81.

This image of Walter ( on the left ) was taken during the 150th Anniversary of the Alpine Club in the Swiss Alps and his passing away a few days ago leaves a void in the world of mountaineering. On The right is another superb mountaineer from UK - Steven Venables - the previous President of the Alpine Club of UK and at centre is Mandip Singh Soin, Director and Founder, Ibex Expeditions India Pvt. Ltd.


Walter Bonatti's achievements include some well known climbs like:

The north face of the Grandes Jorasses (1949)
The east face of Grand Capucin (1951)
The north faces of Tre Cime di Lavaredo in winter (1953)
The southwest pillar of the Aiguille du Dru (The Bonatti pillar) (1955)
Grand Pilier d'Angle (with Tito Gobbi) (1957)
Gasherbrum IV: First Ever Ascent (1958)
The Red Pillar of Brouillard (1959)
Rondoy North - Patagonia (1961)
The north face of the Grandes Jorasses in winter (1963)
The north face of the Matterhorn: solo and in winter (1965)

A true legend of his time, Walter Bonatti will be remembered as a pioneer of mountaineering activities of his times.

Tuesdays for Tomorrow

~ Green Sojourns ~

An article on the developing eco-infrastructure that will fast help transform India into an eco-tourism hub. 

Published in Pravasi Bharatiya, May 2011

Vintage Monday

~ On the Wild Side ~

The final piece of a three-part series written by Mandip Singh Soin, published in the Economic Times as part of a series on the outdoors in the early 1990s.

THE SEASON TO SCALE NEW HEIGHTS:

It sounds like the name of India's satellite launch vehicle. But it's actually a mountain. And a formidable one at that.

Dubbed one of the great challenges of the Garhwal, Swargarohini is located in the Tons Valley and boasts five summits. According to Hindu mythology, the mountain was the 'path to heaven' for the Pandavas. But for modern climbers, it remains and elusive achievement.

But that is not to say mountaineers have stopped trying to conquer it. one early-bird expedition has already arrived from Britain and will attempt to scale Swargarohini I at 6252 metres. The British team, comprising just two memers, will be among the first climbers of this season.

The experienced British dup - Nick Banks and Chris Smith - will be taking the same route as I had in an unsuccessful 1989 expedition. This involves the ascent of Swargarohini II and the a knife-ridge traverse across to the main summit. Nicks is an instructor at a National Mountain institute in the UK - Plas-y-Brenin - located at the foot of Mt. Snowden in North Wales. Within this background, the team's chances are good.

Swargarohini will not be the only peak to face conquest attempts this season. Another one will take place in August-September on a mountain called Hagshu - height 6330 metres - in the Kishtwar region of J&K. A team of four, led by John barry, will scale its north face for the fourth time. They have been beaten back by weather in the past, but they hope to crack the summit this time around.

Barry is a British Army marine, and was also the principal at Plas-y-Brenin, my alma mater. Weather permitting (autumn is generally more stable), John has an even chance. Alsom he will not be under any pressure to perform as he is not considered a die-hard unlike the British duo attempting Thaley Sagar.

Giants of British climbing Joe Brown and Mo Anthoine have attempted Garhwal's Thaley Sagar, with its treacherous and steep north face, before. On their last attempt they climbed the imposing rock head wall and finally got to the last few hundred feet of snow and ice which lay capped on the summit.

Then calamity struck. While stretching out to relax, Anthoine suddenly pushed a rucksack down the mountain. The rucksack carried with it the climbing gear which was necessary to reach the summit. But they took the setback well and called the expedition off.

A type of peak which is becoming popular among climbers is what is called the 7000 metre-plus ones. Peaks like Nun (7135 m) and Kun (7077 m) in Zanskar top the popularity list. A specialized mountian guide agency advertizes the summit and gets mountianeers to sign on for expeditions.

One such successful agency, Allibert of France, has been sedning teams to Kun via the east ridge (Nomale) for the past five years now. It boasts an impressive success rate of nearly 60 per cent.

The peak is not difficult and lies in the remote Zanskar region. The weather is stable, though there is the danger of crevasses en route, and of black bears at the base camp. But it is an exhilarating climb for those yearning for rarefied oxygen at 7000 metres.

Testimonial Thursday

~ Impressions ~

On October 2nd 2011, Renan, Jimmy Chin and Conrad Anker reached the summit of the previously unclimbed Shark's Fin route on the NW face of Meru (20,700ft). In the game of high-altitude, big wall mountaineering, the Shark's Fin lies right on the boundary of what is possible. This win didn't come easily - it was Jimmy and Renan's 2nd and Conrad's 3rd trip to the Garhwal Himalaya of India to attempt this route and all ground support and travel logistics were organised by Ibex Expeditions, India. 

Renan Ozturk discovered his passion for climbing while attending Colorado College in Colorado Springs, Colorado is known to have produced several mountaineers and climbers and this is also where Mandip and Anita Singh Soin’s son Himraj is a Senior (Mandip is the Founder of Ibex Expeditions established in 1979). As a member of the small community of climbers there, he honed his skills, deepened his connection to the sport of climbing and dreamed of the remote and beautiful places it could take him.

Here is a beautiful water colour painted by Renan after this expedition that captures the splendour of the mountains in captivating colours.

Wildlife Wednesday

~ Quest for the Snow Leopard ~

Above Rumbak Village, Leh

Bearded Vulture

Climbing down to Rumbak Village

Snow Leopard Trek 2009

The elusive Snow Leopard

On the prowl

In the cold winter months of Ladakh, we provide you the unique & rare experience of finding the elusive and endangered Snow Leopard. With its team of best Snow Leopard naturalist we will take you into one of the best Snow Leopard habitats in the Hemis high altitude National Park.

Some of the birds that you may come across while on the trek are Golden Eagle, Lammergeyer, Eurasian Eagle Owl, Himalayan Griffon and Himalayan Snow cock, Tibetan Partridge, Chukar Partridge, White Winged Redstart,  Robin Accentor, Snow Pigeons, Hill Pigeons, Fire- Fronted Serin, Blue Whistling-thrush, Snowfinches, White Breasted Dipper, Brown Dipper, Wallcreeper and the Upland Buzzard.

While on the trek you will also have the opportunity to stay in Home Stays and in tents in the prime habitat. Our home stays act as eco tourism initiatives that encourage the locals to help preserve the Snow Leopard and not make it their prey.

Enjoying a hot breakfast

On through the month of April we offer you the opportunity to indulge in a seven day trek where you can come face to face with the elusive snow leopard!

Photo Credits: The Ibex Collection
Pictures of the Snow Leopard: Stanzin Gurmet, Mountain Initiatives

Friday's Feature

~ Jeep safaris ~

If you wish to explore expansive landscapes, verdant valleys and rolling hills this summer, there is no better way than a jeep safari. 

Jeeps throwing up dust

A jeep safari carries the ingredients of a high adventure over spectacular road journeys through remote and forbidden areas of the Himalaya including old caravan routes with reliable and informed drivers without being physically strenuous. 

A jeep seen in the distance

A range of interesting journeys can be undertaken in India with popular ones being from Delhi to Manali and on to Leh and the newly opened Nubra valley in Ladakh as well as to the remote areas of Lahaul, Kinnaur and Spiti in Himachal Pradesh. Once in Leh, several jeep safaris are possible to the spectacular high altitude lakes of Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri and to the rugged though spectacular Zanskar valley.  

Kalpa Village, Himachal Pradesh

For gentler jeep journeys, the beautiful Kumaon and Garhwal regions in Uttarakhand to quaint hills towns like Ranikhet and Almora are interesting. There is also a unique local food culture, with chutneys and pickles made of apples, plums and mangoes. Here, one is able to buy textiles and woollens hand woven by local women cooperatives.

Tabo Monastery 

On a jeep safari in the remote Himalayan areas it is possible to stay at Himalayan home stays and Ibex supports this initiative as it indirectly helps the village communities offset income losses from livestock depredation by snow leopards and other predators. With income from tourism that highlights wildlife viewing, local people have a reason to conserve predators which may threaten their herds, especially since poaching and retributive killing of snow leopards are the major threats across the Himalaya to this rare and beautiful cat.

The mountains at Kalpa, Himachal Pradesh

The ideal time to explore these scapes is June to September. So opt for any one of these places or then tell us your interest and we will create one especially for you!

Vintage Monday

~ On the Wild Side ~

Another of a three-part series written by Mandip Singh Soin, published in the Economic Times as part of a series on the outdoors in the early 1990s.

ROUGH IT OUT IN COMFORT

It's one outdoor sport that's fast catching on - especially among executives, who find it a stimulating way of taking a break. But while roughing it out on a trek is fine, misplaced bravado can literally take on over the edge.

To get the best out of any trekking expedition, you should be prepared to battle the elements. Thus, go in for the best equipment available. It may be expensive, but it will be worth the extra bucks as it lasts for years.

Start with a good wind- and water-proof jacket. The ones made from the expensive Goretex fabric are perhaps the best. Not only are they water-proof,but they are also 'breathable', helping you to avoid the wet and clammy feeling of normal water-proofs. But don't worry, if these jackets don't suit your pocket, a good water-proof jacket would adequately serve the purpose.

A rucksack is the most ubiquitous of all trekking equipment. Look for a good-sized, water-proof, nylon rucksack with a capacity of about 60-70 litres. But make sure you get one with an internal frame system. This prevents drag on the shoulders by taking the shape of the body. External frames are uncomfortable and tend to get caught on rocky outcrops and branches.

These frames are doubly dangerous as they fracture at the least impact - leading to grievous injury, in case of a fall. Make sure that all the buckles are of the 'quick-release' type. At the same time they should hold fast during the simple check of pulling them apart. But remember no rucksack is perfectly water-proof. So line it with a large polythene bad. You could even go for a rucksack in psychedelic colours. Colourful gear is in these days. So why not paint the mountains red?

A sleeping bag is another item to be chosen with care if you want to avoid a nightmarish experience. Since a high-altitude trek entails camping on snow, warm sleeping bags become absolutely essential for survival. Use bags with synthetic fibre filling of a material like Holofil, a DuPont product. Holofil bags retain the trapped an convecte body heat in the loft, even when wet.

Avoid zippered bags. Remember how Captain Haddock, Tin-tin's friend, had his beard caught in a zipper. Well, tough everybody is not as clumsy, a stuck zipper can try anybody's patience. Also they form the cold vein of the sleeping bag from where the heat escapes. It can be particularly distressing if you are given to tossing and turning. Instead, try a slide-bag - 1.5 to 1.75 kg. It would be warm enough even in temperatures of 0 to 5 degrees celssius.

Don't forget to spread a proper mat under your bag.While a close-cell foam mat is ideal, you could try others, too. Check the quality of the mat by dipping a part of it in water. A good one will not soak in the water.

Now for the big one. The best of plans can be wrecked if the tent is not strong enough to protect you from the biting winds and the chilling snow. The one available nowadays come in two basic shapes - the 'A' shaped, with aluminium alloy poles, and the dome shaped with aluminium fibre glass rods. The 'A' shaped tent with an inner layer of 'breathable cotton' and an outer layer (fly sheet) of water-proof nylon fabric, is the best for low altitude treks. The geodesic dome shaped tents have poles that can bend and should be checked for both strength and resilience. Though easy to pitch, it's more expensive. Take care never to pack wet or damp tents in their bags as they tend to mildew and rot.

Having organized the essentials, other items can be begged or borrowed. Starting from the top, here's what you will need - a woollen balaclava (monkey cap), peak cap, sun goggles (preferably ones that block ultra-violet rays), anti sunburn cream, T-shirts and shorts for the day. If it's cold, get baggy trousers and 'plus fours'. Socks, stockings and gloves should be 20 percent acrylic and the rest wool. Hundred percent wool often shrinks, if wet. Also, wear a pair of cotton socks under woollen ones. This allows the perspiration to be soaked up by the first layer and thus avoid 'matting up' of the socks.

Many layers of clothing are good in any case. Because the more layers you have, the more air you trap. Air, as you know, is the bad conductor of heat and retains body warmth.

Other knick-knacks that make life easier up on the mountains are the useful Swiss Army knives, pen-lights, a whistle and cord. With all this equipment, you can then rough it out - in comfort.

Testimonial Thursday

~ One of Our Own ~

Read more about young Himraj Soin's adventures as a Trip Leader for National Geographic Student's Expedition from the US. You can find the story here.

Himraj is the dynamic, climber, explorer son of Anita and Mandip Soin, founder of Ibex Expeditions.

Vintage Monday

~ On the Wild Side ~

A piece written by Mandip Singh Soin, published in the Economic Times as part of a series on the outdoors in the early 1990s.

 

THE HIGH TRAIL TO HAR-KI-DUN

The reverberating sound of a thousand crickets ripped through the still air. We had been in the jungle for well over two hours now. And though we knew the jeep track would be abuzz with flies, we had taken this route from Sankri through the thick coniferous forests because it's an easy, four-hour trek, almost on level ground.

We were on the Har-ki-dun trail. It's a demanding trek - one that should be attempted only after gaining confidence with shorter trails. But the longer walking hours are more than made up for by the rich flora and fauna encountered along the way.

Getting to the trail itself had taken us on the road linking Delhi and Dehra Dun. The cows and potholes had inevitably made a difference of a few hours to our schedules. We had passed through Rajaji Sanctuary area, crossing paths occasionaly with a spotted deer.

The overnight halt at Dehra Dun brought welcome relief from the heat. We could feel the change in the climate, and the light nip in the air set the tone for the days to come. The next day took us through Naogaon, Purola, Jermola and Naitwar up to the roadhead at Sankri. The climb was steep at times and we had not bargained on coming across the occasional landslide. Nor had we anticipated having to meadner through flocks of sheep.

While our overworked limbs protested, the mind followed the eyes and was overawed by the breathtaking view in front of us. On the slopes I espied quaint village houses huddled together to fight off the strong mountain winds. The winding track continues to Sankri.

Just before Taluka we came upon a hair-raising river-crossing. We managed by essaying a Houdini-like act on the narrow tree trunk that had been thoughtfully laid across the rushing waters. Situated at a height of 1900 m, the Taluka bungalow commands an imposing view of the hills. Usually, accommodation is not a problem. This bungalow also has an interesting feature in the form of a canopy perched at the edge of the valley. From here, you are afforded a bird's eye view of the hills of Har-ki-Dun.

The walk from Taluka to Seema, at a height of 2560 m, takes between six and eight hours and is all ups and downs. The trail hugs the river at times, often going into the coniferous forests. Here the trekker needs to be alert. one wrong step and the mossy undergrowth can be cruel. At Seema, a second dak bungalow is being built. This place was earlier called Osla though the village by that name is across the river, a km away. As the valley widens from here, more terraced fields come into view. the colours are in stark contrast to the diverse flowers and crops. The walk from Osla to Jar-ki-Dun at 3570 m entails another river-crossing - fortunately over a proper bridge.

The steady incline is not perceptible. At a distance, the Banderpunch and Swargarohini ranges come into view. As do the profusion of flowers like anemones, buttercups and scores of primulae. This road leads to the last bungalow at the head of the Har-ki-Dun valley and takes about six to seven hours from Osla.

Though dak bungalows are available, tents are a good insurance policy. Also, it is good to move in the Ruinsara-Tal direction. There are two routes to approach this picturesque lake, a popular base camp for expeditioners, from Har-ki-Dun. A high altitude trek over a pass that drops off near the Swargarohini peak is a good option but would require some skillful manoeuvring over snow.

The other is to back-track toward Osla until the river crossing and then follow the Ruinsara trailalong the Tons river. Before crossing, amidst tall deodar trees and a abundance of rhododendrons, lies a nomad's hut where you could rest your back.

The next day, we descend from here to the bridge. The trail meanders close to the river. The walk is long, ridge after ridge, but the end result is a definite treat for the trail enthusiast.

Mandip Singh Soin is a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society, and an adventure sports enthusiast.  

Wildlife Wednesdays

~ Roots & Branches ~

The Roots are in Africa
But the branches in the sky ...
Legends and tales of Ancestors,
Live and never die.
Baobab trees soars
And Lemurs learn to fly.

Along the majestic Tsiribihina
The sun illuminates our way.
drifting the gorge of the waterfall
of Anosin Ampela.
Oblivious to Nature's beckoning beauty,
We embrace Nature's glory,
Aware of our fragility.

The fading light in the grand expanse,
Picking the strands that matter,
The sun beams a golden path on the water,
And now and then, a wistful glance.

Once you've seen his form and face,
The reason isn't hard to trace,
Why he lies all alone,
The Gecko lying on a stone.

Within our souls,
Within our mind,
There lies a place
We strive to find.

Home in our hearts,
A land of such mirth.
Smoke-coloured stone,
Flame-coloured Earth.
Electric skies, quaking heat,
and blood-red clay earth beneath our feet.

The music og Madagascar beats in the wind,
and its coluors dazzle in the sun,
A palette of nature without a sound,
While Malagasy stories reverberate around.

We travelled and ancient life, too old to name,
and a land, too wild to tame,
Our hearts and souls were so deeply caught,
in a life of people, with deep though.

~Anita Dayal Soin

The Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park is the largest protected area in Madagascar, and a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site.

Email us at ibex@ibexexpeditions.com to find out more about our wildlife journeys